Setting Up a New Shower Unit
A successful shower installation needs cautious planning and a lot of work. For the most part, you will require to do 3 types of tasks: framing walls, installing the plumbing, and completing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you need to pick the type of shower that you wish to set up. It is necessary to establish whether the picked shower is capable of dealing with certain systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. A lot of shower systems nowadays are developed to be flexible to various water pressures (such as stored hot water and cold mains).
It is also important to take into consideration the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drainage for the shower
Different Types of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be connected to the bath tap based on your requirement, and the water temperature can be adjusted by means of the taps. Push-on mixers are low-cost and exceptionally basic to set up. However, although the hose connection is basic, it is easily removed. Furthermore, it is inconvenient to change the temperature.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose and spray of this kind of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature level can be adjusted through the bath taps. It is an extremely inexpensive option and no extra plumbing is involved. However, the bath/shower mixers also experience inconvenient temperature control alternatives.
Manual Mixer: The hose and spray of a manual mixer shower unit belong of the wall system and the cold and hot water supplies are linked to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are managed through either one or a variety of knobs (in more pricey showers). Although temperature control is a lot easier in manual mixer types, they are more pricey than the formerly pointed out mixers. They likewise require extra pipes of cold and hot water supply pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall unit and the hot and cold water products are connected to a single valve here too. It is total with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to avoid it from ending up being too hot. One of the most significant benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type consists of hassle-free temperature level control. However, it is the most costly of the different mixer choices.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit consisting of a powerful electric pump that is capable of modifying both the water pressure and temperature level. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is water system from a cold water tank and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the modification of both pressure and temperature level easy. On the other hand, it disagrees for water heated directly by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it warms the water electrically. It is necessary to keep in mind that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure needs to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system enables the temperature level and pressure to be adjusted by means of a knob. Designs with temperature level stabilisers are better as they remain unaffected by other taps in other places in usage within the home. A major disadvantage of electrical showers is that the control knob only allows for the option of heats at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a greater pressure. This is troublesome in the winter season when the spray is typically weak and the mains water is chillier. Nevertheless, this issue is taken on in some models which are readily available with a winter/summer setting. https://www.fixitrightplumbing.com.au/plumber-carrum-downs/
Method
Depending on the kind of shower you wish to set up, the shower head must either be suited order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath listed below or the base tray, or it must have a check valve.
Before starting, it is a good idea to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to prepare the pipe-work included. Furthermore, the drain system to get rid of the drainage will need to be planned. Both positions of the cable television route and the shower switch will also need to be considered if an immediate or electric shower system is being installed.
Use the guideline guide offered with the shower unit to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will supply the water to the shower system, it is important to cut off the water supply. In order to protect the pipelines, they need to be provided a water resistant covering and also fitted with isolating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Reconnect the water supply and test the pipelines for any leakages, as some may require tightening.
If you are setting up an electrical shower, keep in mind to switch off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. As soon as these connections have actually been made (there need to be guidance within the user's manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Suit Your Shower
The cold water tank can be raised to a higher height (sometimes as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden support below it-- potentially made up of struts and blockboards. If you select this option, the primary and distribution pipes will likewise need to be raised to meet the brand-new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it needs to be linked into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to use 15mm size supply pipes, and make the runs to the shower as brief and straight as possible so regarding maintain optimal pressure and reduce heat loss. Furthermore, by minimising using elbows for pipeline corners, you can reduce the resistance in the circulation of the water system. You can achieve this by bending the pipes instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaking or neglecting regional code restrictions.
# Utilizing pipes that are too small.
# Connecting copper to galvanized without utilizing a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.
# Not using tape or pipe compound at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your fixtures when installing them.
# Not installing an air space filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too brief to install the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall remains in place.
# Not appropriately aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.)
# When turning the water back on in your home, constantly run the outdoors hose valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can trigger problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.